Bordeaux Wine Châteaux Slowly Reopen While Limited En Primeur Tastings Begin

This year’s originally planned April/May ‘en primeur’ tastings throughout the Bordeaux wine region of France were cancelled due to pandemic concerns and travel restrictions.

With the ongoing current relaxation of confinement conditions in France, wine châteaux are slowly but cautiously reopening their doors. En primeur wine tastings are also taking place, though severely scaled down.

With exceptions within a geographically small pocket of higher risk regions centered around the city of Paris—as of Tuesday, June 2^nd, French schools, bars, cafés, restaurants, parks, public gardens, gyms, movie theaters and beaches will re-open, although appropriate social distancing measures will have to be respected. A day later the border with Italy will re-open, and on June 15^th the border with the remainder of Europe will re-open. Discotheques and sports stadiums will remain closed.

According to the SudOuest newspaper of southwestern France, the president of Union des Grand Crus of Bordeaux—Román Laborde—announced that on June 5^th they will launch a scaled down version of ‘en primeurs’ for the 2019 wine vintage.

This year’s configuration for such tastings will differ from those of previous years, as airline flights are limited and hotels are only partially operable. A group of 450 wine professionals within the Gironde Department of southwest France (including wine brokers, journalists, distributors and restaurateurs) will attend wine tastings under strictly controlled sanitary conditions in Bordeaux. Additionally, wine samples will also be sent by the Union (which represents 134 wine châteaux) to cities such as Paris, Brussels, Zurich, Hong Kong, London and New York. Wine professionals in those cities can then meet at selected focal locations (taking appropriate cautions to avoid potential viral transference) to taste wines from the 2019 vintage.

The ferry boat service that connects the towns of Blaye and Lamarque—located within Bordeaux wine country on the right and left banks of the Gironde estuary—also recently reopened with restrictions: passengers must wear masks and the number of passengers is limited to 50.

Earlier this week I drove to a renowned Saint-Émilion château to taste their 2019 wines. This ancient village—usually bustling with visitors at this time of the year—was vacant except for limited local shoppers and groups of bicyclists.

Below are tasting notes for various wines from the 2019 vintage (a previous article provided a general overview of the conditions that resulted in a generally excellent vintage).

The 2019 wines below are listed under three separate sections.

The first section below includes wines that subjectively score from (and including) 95 to 98 points on a 100-point scale.

Château Angelus. Premier Grand Cru Classé ‘A’ Saint-Émilion. 2019.

Harvest for this 60/40 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Franc began September 15^th and lasted until early October. Aromas for this signature wine are rich, plush, creamy and inviting—a basket of lush black cherries and a slim ribbon of menthol. This is a suave and gorgeously accessible wine bursting with a light taste of black fruit and precise yet opulent tannins. An energetic 2019 vintage and precise winemaking has resulted in another winner from winemaker Hubert de Boüard. Excellent.

Carillon d’Angélus. Saint-Émilion. 2019.

This 90/10 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc includes fruit and floral aromas that are richly agreeable—harmonious, sweet and charmingly seductive. Tannins and acidity are well integrated, partially due to the château’s precise temperature controls during fermentation. This wine is round and silently structured. In the mouth there is a little spice and ample texture. Pair with a hefty dish—perhaps grilled steak or lamb.

Château Bellevue. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2019.

The 16.8-acre (6.8-hectare) vineyard produces exclusively Merlot grapes which are hand-picked. The wine ages from 16 to 20 months. Strong and focused dark fruit and floral aromas with a hint of graphite. This is a dignified wine, with similar deep quality aromas to those of the 2018 vintage, but even fresher and more energetic. The round, supple taste of this very approachable wine includes spice and a supple acidic length. This is waiting to be paired with a meal—consider grilled tenderloin or rich vegetarian lasagna.

Château Daugay. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2019.

Named over 500 years ago after the local jay birds, this 13.5-acre (5.5-hectare) estate includes 40-year old vines growing over a clay and limestone substrate on the southern slope of Saint-Émilion. This 50/40/10 Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon blend includes an explosion of raspberry, cranberry and deep dark fruit aromas. The taste is cherry and berry full, with a hint of mocha wafers and smoke.

Couvent des Jacobins. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2019.

This winery located in the center of the village of Saint-Émilion is so named because the ancient stone building was once a convent. Owner Xavier Jean and winemaker Denis Pomarède insist on using no sulfites during the fermentation of what eventually becomes an 85/10/5 Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot blend—from vines up to 55 years old. The wine ages up to 15 months in 45% new French oak. It includes truly fresh aromas of violets, lavender and apricots under a dark robe of black fruit. Excellent structure. Plush and profound in the mouth with a velvety taste that includes menthol, cocoa and licorice. A compact, elegant pulse of layered flavor. Black Magic. Pair this river of succulent juice with roast duck, sirloin, or a Moroccan tagine.

Couvent des Jacobins. Calicem. 2019.

Made from grapes grown on 60 year old vines, this wine ages in 500-liter oak vats for 18 months. This 100% Merlot wine is named after the Latin word which means ‘I give you the chalice.’ Gorgeously extracted deep and redolent dark fruit intensity with aromas that include those of graphite, Kägi Fret wafers, blueberries and mandarin peels. In the mouth a light touch—loaded with flavors of black cherries, aniseed, caraway and salt—slips across the tongue with an acidic ribbon that includes a hint of mint. Pair with game, spicy beef or even honey coated salmon.

Hubert de Boüard. Sauvignon. 2019.

This 100% Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc includes aromas of cold pumice, grapefruit, lime, nectarines and flint. In the mouth this is a flinty, schisty Sauvignon—akin in some ways to a Chablis Chardonnay—that is well structured, durable, original and with a slight and attractive wild kick of herbaceous attraction that includes mild mint. Unique and well made. After five minutes in the glass, aromas become more rounded and include those of nectarines.

Château Thenac. Blanc. 2019.

From a Bergerac location on which vines have grown from the 12^th century, this 67/28/5 blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle includes 13.5% alcohol and is extremely reasonably priced. Includes crispy, fragrant aromas of lime, gooseberries, kiwi fruit and mandarins. A hefty and energetic nose—brimming with minerality within a well-structured envelope. In the mouth—a flush of robust citric acidity, a cascade of differentiated flavors that include cashews and grapefruit. This is a regal and uplifting wine, brimming with tangy tropicals. Assertive, citric, exuberant. Consider pairing with marinated raw tuna.

Hubert de Boüard. Semillon. 2019.

Creamy nose that includes aromas of lavender. In the mouth—green apples and honey and hazelnuts. Unctuous and rich with a mildly peppery length. Gorgeous. A rounded taste of kiwi fruit, melon, Bartlett pears, sultanas. Beautiful full mouth feel that is silky and billowing on the cheeks. Consider pairing with sushi or cheesecake.

Le Petit Marand. Cuvée Elise Chardonnay. 2018

From a family producer located in Charente—whose wines are vinified by a Bordeaux producer residing in the Blaye region—comes this winner. Gorgeous aromas of flint and lime, butter and nutmeg. Full on creamy rounded mouthful, with a scintillating ribbon of acidity.

Château Haut-Beauséjour. Saint-Estèphe. 2019.

An 85/15 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is unusual for the left bank, in that Merlot dominates. Rounded aromas of juicy fruit gum, hibiscus, aniseed, red fruit. In the mouth—elegant acidity and a juicy mouth feel. Match with cheesecake or lamb chops.

The wines below would subjectively score from (and including) 91 to 94 points on a 100-point scale.

No. 3 d’Angélus. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2019.

From Château Angélus comes this wine to drink soon after bottling. This 85/15 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is aged in one- to two-year old French oak barrels. It includes rich, deep and somehow calming fruit aromas—blackberries and blue berries—with the signature elegance from Saint-Émilion soils. In the mouth this has a deliciously full length with a hint of chocolate wafers. The acidity is fresh and balanced. Consider pairing with lamb chops and grilled eggplant.

Hubert de Boüard. Chardonnay. 2019.

Made from grapes selected from various parcels within Bordeaux and named after the consulting enologist and owner of Château Angélus, this wine includes aromas of flint, peach and mandarins—generous but precise. In the mouth this IGP Atlantique appellation Chardonnay is zesty and non-buttery—more acidic than a Chablis and resembling a meld between a Chablis and Pinot Gris.

Château La Fleur de Boüard—Lalande de Pomerol. 2019.

This blend of 80/14/5/1 Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot is made from separately vinified fruit in cone-shaped tanks in a new gravity-fed facility. The wine is then aged between 18 and 24 months in 75% new oak. Sweet, energetic and juicy aromas of blood oranges, mint chocolate and a little trace of cumin and white pepper. In the mouth, full, plush, rich, complex. Includes that signature 2019 taste of deep fruit with an elegant edge of tannins.

Château Gaby. Fronsac. 2019.

A Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon blend grown over clay limestone on hills in Fronsac, west of Saint-Émilion. This château was purchased by American Tom Sullivan in 2016. Gin and tonic like energy and heft with aromas of cedar, tar, licorice and mahogany. In the mouth—plush deep, juicy and rich. Pair with a magret de canard duck breast. An energetic winner from Fronsac.

Château Bourdieu. Absolu. 2019.

This wine château within the Blaye—Côtes de Bordeaux appellation is owned and operated by Luc Schweitzer and his sons Ludovic and Richard. It is located adjacent to the Côtes de Bourg appellation, which labels itself as the ‘spicy side of Bordeaux’ due to its relatively generous use of Malbec in blends. This Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec blend includes a powder keg of aromas—gunflint, deep black fruit, mint and sage. In the mouth, this wine provides evidence of what the best of Blaye wines can do and includes a meld of pepper, cardamom and black cherries.

Château Mayne Lalande.

Located in Listrac on Bordeaux’s left bank, this 60/30/5/5 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot includes aromas of oats, chocolate, cola, cranberries and dark wood and also includes a menthol lilt. Beautiful. In the mouth, a solid taste layered with black fruit.

Château Clos Jacobins. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2019.

From this Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé owned by Magali and Thibaut Decoster (who also own a Saint-Émilion restaurant) comes this 80/18/2 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich aromas include those of blueberries and minestrone. In the mouth—luscious, dark, layered, full and agreeable for a hearty steak.

Château Laurence. Petite Laurence. 2019.

This 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Philippe Nunes in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux (who grows 80% of white grapes) has a rounded, honeyed aroma and a balanced taste, almost resembling a Semillon. Well-made and well-balanced.

Château des Mille Anges. St. Germain de Graves. 2019.

Located east of the Garonne River close to the town of Cadillac, this château includes 75 acres (30 hectares) of vines and typically produces a 70/20/10 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc. The 2019 blend includes fresh and fruit laden aromas (black cherries, blackberries) as well as aromas of pencil lead, citrus, treacle, ginger and leather. In the mouth this is a dark bar that includes flavors of licorice, nutmeg and smoked tea. Compact and powerful. Pair with charcoal grilled steak or pasta with marinara sauce.

Le Petit Marand. Extraordinaire Merlot. 2019.

From a wine producer located in Charente to the north of the Bordeaux wine region. Aromas include those of raspberries and lavender—fresh and opulent. In the mouth, a light taste that includes flavors of cocoa and cherries.

Dame de Boüard. Montagne Saint-Émilion. 2019.

A 60/30/10 Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the satellite appellation of Montagne Saint-Émilion from Coralie de Boüard, this includes aromas of blackberries, red currants, black cherries and lime. In the mouth—soft mouth feel with a background of slim tannins. Pulsing with the taste of dark fruit.

Château Plain-Point. Chairman’s Selection. Fronsac. 2019.

80/7/8 blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of fresh and deeply rich cherries and mocha. In the mouth a succulent beauty with a slim, focused ribbon of acidity and a mild tannic structure.

Château Gouprie. Pomerol. 2019.

A 75/25 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Aromas include rich and rounded red fruit that shouts out as well as lively and generous aromas of cookie dough and brownies. In the mouth this is well balanced, with a distinct and agreeable tension between alcohol and acidity.

The wines below subjectively score up to (and including) 90 points on a 100-point scale.

Château Puynard. Traditional. 2019.

This 92/8 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend includes aromas of juicy pulped fruit, charcoal, balsamic and sage. It has a loose tannic spine and in the mouth is easy drinking with juicy acidity and a taste that includes that of raspberries, cashews and gooseberries. Slippery and succulent. Consider matching with an appetizer of Thai spicy chips or South African biltong.

Château Auguste. Rosé. 2019.

From a 74-acre estate in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, this organic rosé includes mild aromas that include play-doh and clover. An acidic river with an herbaceous tang. Flavors include bread yeast, meringue and limes.

Chateau de Carles. Haut-Carles. Fronsac. 2019.

This 90/5/5 blend of Merlot/Malbec/Cabernet Franc comes from a Fronsac property originally established in the late 1300’s. Aromas include those of raspberries, sultanas, charcoal and black cherries, while the taste includes that of red fruit, orange rind and cocoa.

Château Leroy Beauval. 2019.

This is a 60/30/10 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc—which includes a greater proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon than Franc due to the location of the estate—not on the right bank but in the Entre-Deux-Mers region. Opulent aromas—rich, plush and full and including smoke, black pepper and tarragon. In the mouth this includes a really rich, deep, bountiful taste of black fruit with a zesty length. Tastes also include a hint of cocoa and licorice.

Château Sainte-Marie Vielles Vignes.

This château is located in the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux and the white grapes are picked from low yield old vines growing over limestone and clay. The taste includes characteristics of the three component grapes: the zest and acidity of Sauvignon Blanc, the roundness, honey and apricot tastes of Semillon and the richness of Muscadelle. In the mouth, great acidity and fruits—clean and lean. Proportions are 70/25/5 Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle.