Château De Figuières In Beautiful La Clape, A Wine Estate In Transformation

La Clape, near the town of Narbonne, is a small wine region in the Languedoc. It is a stunningly beautiful region by the sea and also one of France’s sunniest places. There is always a gentle wind blowing away the clouds. It is a protected nature reserve where people can hike among vines, olive trees, wild orchids and fragrant herbs.

Château de Figuières is situated at an altitude of 150 meters on the limestone plateau of La Clape. The sea is five kilometres away, close enough to cool the vines at night. Alain Bovis, an art gallery owner, came to this little paradise looking for a winery to “live his wine dream”. When he saw Château de Figuières, he knew he had found what he was looking for. The property had no vines at the time, only sheep grazing. The vines had disappeared during the phylloxera crisis 100 years ago. Alain started planting new vines in 1980.

A new chapter began for Alain Bovis and his estate when in 2015 he hired the oenologist Sébastien Martin to “create a new Figuières”. I asked Sébastien how he tackles such an assignment.

“The first steps were about the winemaking”, he says, “which is still under development and improvement” He set about simplifying the winery facilities and, he says maybe only half-seriously, “getting rid of many of the gadgets”.

He takes one step at a time. Every year he introduces a new idea. In 2015, he started with cold maceration pre-fermentation for the red wines, i.e., skin contact at a low temperature before the fermentation begins. This is considered by many to give an enhanced fruit character to the wine. In 2016, he introduced long soaking (skin contact) after the fermentation. Since 2017, this prolonged soaking is made at a warmer temperature, which, says Sébastien, gives a smooth extraction. Since 2019, he does not add sulphites until the ageing phase starts for the reds. He has also started doing bâtonnage (stirring of the yeast lees) for the whites.

The vineyards are also getting a makeover. Sebastien is renewing blocks he considers too old and is planning to do co-planting, i.e., planting several different grape varieties together in a single plot. He monitors the ripeness of the grapes by tasting. “This”, he says, “allows me to separate the different styles and harvest only the right blocks.” He stresses the importance of careful canopy management to improve airflow and reduce the risk of diseases.

Less spraying to produce sustainably is an integral part of the work. Since this fall he has a green cover in the vineyard that will provide natural fertilizer to the soil. Animals are important. “We get honey every year from their own beehives” They have installed bat houses. Bats love going after the harmful insects. Sometimes they release sheep into the vineyard. “The work in the vineyard is long-term,” says Sébastien, “and is about having healthier vines in the long run.”

Château de Figuières makes white and red wines in two different styles, Tempus and Impetus, as well as a red prestige cuvée called Excelsus. Tempus is a more easy-drinking, Impetus more complex.

The white wines

La Clape has excellent conditions for making white wines. Around 20% of the wines from the appellation are white, which is a lot for Languedoc which is mostly a red wine region. Château de Figuières uses Roussanne and Viognier, grapes that give full-bodied wines, often with floral aromas. An AOP La Clape requires a certain amount of the rare grape Bourbolenc, so the Figuières wines are not “appellation wines” but instead what’s called “IGP” Pays d’Oc which gives more choice in what grape varieties to use.

Tempus ferments in a stainless-steel tank and is kept there for a short time before bottling. Impetus is aged in small oak barrels with bâtonnage. Tempus also gets some bâtonnage in the steel tank, but less often.

Château de Figuières Tempus 2016 has a delicious nose of white flowers, and there are also almonds and melons. The taste is balanced with a fairly full mouthfeel.

Château de Figuières Tempus 2017 is more expressive with stone fruits but also white flowers from Viognier and body from Roussanne.

Château de Figuières Impetus Blanc 2016 is full-bodied, nuanced, with hints of grey pears. Quite a pleasant personality.

Château de Figuières Impetus Blanc 2017 has ripe fruit on the nose but is very citrus fresh on the palate. Good body and well balanced.

The red wines

The reds are made from Syrah and Grenache. Tempus ferments and ages in 100-200 hectolitres steel tanks. The slightly more expensive Impetus ferments in 50-hectoliter steel tanks and is ages in small oak barrels. The reds follow the appellation rules for grape varieties so they are AOP La Clape.

Château de Figuières Tempus 2016, AOP La Clape has lovely, fresh fruit, dark fruit mostly, but there are also hints of tobacco. Soft tannins give a certain structure.

Château de Figuières Tempus 2017, AOP La Clape, is quite intriguing. I had at first a notion of volatile acidity, but as it evolved in the glass, there was freshness, a good level of acidity and a juicy fruit that made the wine easy-drinking and at the same time with complexity.

Château de Figuières, Impetus 2016, AOP La Clape has a distinct character of syrah in classic style with black pepper, fresh herbs, structure and a balanced taste.

Prices from the property: red and white Tempus 7.50 euros, red and white Impetus 14 euros, which certainly makes them good value, and the prestigious wine Excelsus sells at 40 euros.

—Britt Karlsson

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