Ask An Expert: Why Does This $12 Whiskey Have A Cult Following?

In the world of American spirits, corn whiskey is a peculiarity. As most enthusiasts are aware, bourbon, rye, and Tennessee whiskey all have to be aged in new, charred oak barrels. But when a distillate is made from 80% maize or more, a producer can elect to place it into this outlying category. If it wears the term proudly on its label, then not only does ‘corn whiskey’ not require new or charred cooperage—it doesn’t even need to touch wood at all.

Mellow Corn is an outlier amongst outliers. Heaven Hill in Bardstown, Kentucky is responsible for this $12 curiosity—the only bottled-in-bond example of the style. So even though it doesn’t need to age for a day, this one sits in used barrels for no less than four years. Then there’s that loud yellow label it wears, which can best described as, well, corny. Perhaps the most intriguing element of the product is that it somehow sustains a cult status among a certain subset of drinkers. Namely: bartenders.

To better understand why, I decided to ask one. A prominent one, at that. Kim Stodel runs the beverage program at Providence, a two-star Michelin outpost in Los Angeles, California. Here’s what he had to say:

“I love Mellow Corn. It’s easy to come by, easy on the eyes and very easy on the wallet. It’s made by one of the best family-owned whiskey companies in the US who have a proven track record of making great products, and they make it ‘bottled-in-bond’—the only corn whiskey to my knowledge to do so!

I also love the branding. It’s genius. I think it’s one of the most idyllic and iconic labels in the world! Any similar priced product would kill for that branding. It somehow has the power to transport you to another place and time and feels authentic. It’s great Americana like a classic Disney cartoon that somehow has escaped the upgrade. The words ‘mellow’ and ‘corn’ also feel awful nice together, it has a poetic musicality to it. 

As for the juice itself: for the price it’s not bad. Its affordability and accessibility therefore make it great for mixing cocktails. It’ll make a fine whiskey cola or ginger with bitters for starters, but also plays well in sours especially with baking spices or fruits. Peach and corn? It’s like the 4th of July!”