Designer Aurora James of Brother Vellies and #15PercentPledge
Photo Courtesy of Aurora James
Since founding Brother Vellies, a fashion footwear brand in New York City celebrating traditional African design and artisanal work, designer Aurora James has long supported Black artisans. With a new industry initiative #15PercentPledge, James is asking big business to invest in the future of the Black community by committing that 15% of their products are made by Black-owned businesses, as well as examining diversity in their own businesses.
Fifteen percent was chosen as it roughly correlates to the 13.4% of the U.S. population that is Black. The designer emphasizes the importance of this grassroots effort to support and sustain Black-owned businesses long term beyond a charitable donation.
I spoke with James to discuss how she started the #15PercentPledge, what’s next for the initiative and more.
How was your brand Brother Vellies faring during the coronavirus shutdown before the death of George Floyd?
Aurora James: We realized the need to shift our business strategy, so we created Something Special, small-batch items aimed at bringing beauty and comfort to our community. By signing up for the monthly paid program, they receive a unique gift such as Cloud Socks, a mug handmade by artisans in Oaxaca or a hand-poured candle, for instance.
How was the #15PercentPledge born?
James: It happened fast and organically! In discussing current struggles that Black-owned businesses are having during the pandemic and the recent tragedies of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and Ahmed Arbery among others, friends asked, “How can we help?”
My response was to support Black-owned businesses, who were suffering at higher rates, with 40% facing permanent closure. Support from major retailers could help put money and resources back into Black communities, long term.
Sephora in the Meatpacking District with storefront mural during the COVID-19 pandemic in New York … [+]
Getty Images
The concept took off immediately, with Sephora being the first big retailer to sign on. Can you tell me how this occurred?
James: Through ongoing discussions with a handful of businesses and retailers and placing pressure on these companies through social media, Sephora listened and pledged. Sephora joining has made us more driven than ever; we couldn’t have done it alone.
Sephora launched a Madam C. J. Walker Beauty Culture collection in 2016, making them one of the first to recognize the achievement of the first Black female millionaire businesswoman. Did this come into play for them to join #15PercentPledge?
James: I can’t say this affected their final decision, but it proved to be a successful case study for Black excellence in the beauty space. Sephora is taking a real stand against systemic racism and discrimination by working to put funding into the Black community, which is huge. It represents billions of dollars for Black-owned beauty businesses—the majority Black female founders—which is exciting.
Will the packaging be marked, so the consumer knows they are buying and supporting a Black-owned business? Where or how will retailers acknowledge their commitment to #15PercentPledge?
James: We are exploring how businesses can inform customers that they support the #15PercentPledge. Whether it comes in the form of a badge or in some other way, we’ll roll that out soon.
However, to pledge means proportionate merchandising, having a thoughtful business strategy and relationships. I’m not asking these companies to invest in a business just because it’s Black-owned. We encourage retailers to research and evaluate what Black-owned companies work for them.
The approach of the #15PercentPledge isn’t to donate but rather to commit to long term partnerships to build and sustain Black-owned businesses. Can you explain this distinction?
James: The #15PercentPledge is an initiative aimed at making a difference and calling on others to show their support not just now but long term.
These investments cause a ripple effect, which is not prevalent in one-off cash donations. Many people of color choose to spend their money with these businesses, which operate in their communities with sponsored posts targeted to us. If they value our money, then value us as well and demonstrate representation.
The pledge first asks participants to take stock, which we have seen a lot of companies announce on social media. How does this become a genuine commitment by brands (and publications) and not just a trending topic? How can brands/retailers improve at transparency?
James: Brands are posting messages of solidarity, but not changing the content release. Businesses say they stand with the Black Lives Matter movement, but don’t have diversity on shelves or in boardrooms.
We are working with companies to create strategies tailored to their particular business. It is not a one size fits all model, so different routes can be found to get to the 15% mark. Companies must make this information public.
Businesses should define and publish the steps they are taking to diversify and be held accountable now and for years to come. The plan should track and map growth, with clear and attainable benchmarks. Success is evident in thoughtfulness and longevity.
To date, have major daily life necessities retailers such as Target, Whole Foods and Walmart, Home Depot responded in any way?
James: Sephora was the first of the four major retailers to officially take the pledge. We are still waiting for the other three to commit.
What is the most important thing you’d like people to realize when making purchases from a Black-owned business?
James: Supporting Black-owned businesses helps secure financial longevity and economic equality in the long term.
What’s next for #15PercentPledge? Where else can we apply this concept?
James: We are only just getting started! We will expand to apply the concepts to industries outside the fashion/ retail world. Whether it is tech, hospitality, influencers, or Hollywood, we need representation in all realms of the economy. So we ask for support in signing the petition or liking, following or sharing us on Instagram.
What else would you like to see the industry as a whole do to further progress?
James: I hope that the fashion industry will be able to reevaluate what business as usual looks like, think more about their supply chain, how they are treating people they work with, and what imagery they are putting out there to inspire people to shop. Often it has been rooted in trying to make women feel less than we should and instead focus on women feeling like their best versions.