Experimentation Propels Virginia’s Wine Industry

“Confidence” is a word Dave McIntyre, wine columnist for the Washington Post, uses to describe Virginia’s wine industry. Rather than mimic new or old world styles of other regions, Virginia’s top winemakers are forging their own style. “I describe it as American ripeness with Old World elegance,” he adds.

Virginia viticulture is as old as America. Twelve years after establishing the Jamestown settlement, a law was passed requiring each male colonist to plant and tend to a minimum of ten grapevines. By the end of the 18th century, Thomas Jefferson and the Virginia Wine Company devoted 2,000 acres of land to viticulture.

Like the rest of the United States, the promise of this region came to a halt with the enacting of Prohibition. The region did not regain its footing until the 1970’s. Today, Virginia is home to 312 wineries, with viticulture acreage doubling since the days of Jefferson.

Most wineries are family-owned, with an average size of 12.8 acres. “Each winery offers a compelling story,” shares Frank Morgan, freelance wine writer and founder of Virginia Wine Chat, “these are micro-boutique wineries making quality wines by hand.”

Like McIntyre, Morgan sees the Virginia wine industry as a “bridge between the old and new world.” For example, Cabernet Franc is one of the region’s star grapes. McIntyre believes it offers a distinct expression of Virginia in place and winemaking style, rather than a copy of Loire Valley.

Experimentation continues driving this region into the future. With more than 28 different grape varieties growing throughout Virginia’s ten wine regions, winegrowers, like Jim Law of Linden Vineyards, challenge the region’s viticultural limits in constant search of a better glass of wine.

Law planted thirteen different varieties—including Furmint, Mencia, Mourvèdre, Gros Manseng, Saperavi, and Gruner Veltliner—in a single vineyard to study how these grapes adapt to the Virginia soil, sun, and sky. He plans to add new varieties to the experimental vineyard each vintage in a quest to expand the region’s successful grape cultivation.

Petit Manseng, a white grape hailing from southwest France, has become a darling of Virginia. “Look around the wine world, you’re not going to find too many regions producing a dry Petit Manseng,” explains Morgan. The grape shines in the wet Virginia climate.

While Cabernet Franc has found a home away from home in the region, Morgan believes “Petit Verdot is emerging as the region’s “hallmark”. This red grape is best known for its supporting role in Bordeaux; however, Virginia’s warmer climate allows the grape’s tannins an opportunity to fully ripen, creating a concentrated, rich red wine that is drawing critical praise from industry professionals.

Another key to Virginia’s exciting wine future—blends. “You’ll find blends here that you won’t find anywhere, such as Petit Verdot and Tannat, or Petit Manseng with Chardonnay or Viognier,” shares McIntyre. Blended wines took center stage at the 2020 Virginia’s Governor Cup competition as well. Seven of the twelve highest rated wines, out of 530 samples, comprise the judges’ top selection.

Why seek wines from Virginia? Simple. “You can find world class wines in Virginia that you can’t find anywhere else in the world,” shares McIntyre.

The 2020 Governor’s Cup Case

2017 868 Estate Vineyards Vidal Blanc $24: tropical fruit, grilled peach and pineapple, gentle baking spice, honey, dried figs; sweetness balanced with fresh acidity giving a mid-palate lift and a clean finish

2017 Afton Mountain Vineyards AMV Traditional $38: 41% Merlot, 37% Petit Verdot, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon; balance of red and blue fruit, baking spice, crushed violets, black pepper, dusty cocoa, menthol, licorice, tobacco; elegant with fine-grain tannins, smooth mouth-feel, structure and a long finish

2014 Barboursville Vineyard Octagon Red Blend $65: 56% Merlot, 23% Petit Verdot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon; baked blue and red fruit, warm spice, roasted espresso, leather, dried herbs, fine-grain tannins, rich yet restrained, full-bodied, long finish

2018 Barboursville Vineyard Vermentino Reserve $22.99: fresh citrus, orchard fruit, white floral notes; elegant texture, refreshing and refined, long finish 

2017 Delaplane Cellars Williams Gap $65: 50% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot, 23% Petit Verdot; black fruit – fresh and stewed – baking spice, black pepper, dusty earth; decisively bold, silky yet firm tannins, full-bodied, long finish

2017 Lake Anna Winery Tannat $42: loads of black fruit, black pepper, baking spice, tobacco, and toasted walnuts; bold and focused palate, grippy tannins, full-bodied, finish for days

2016 Michael Shaps Meritage $50: 45% Merlot, 28% Petit Verdot, 9% Malbec, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc; balance of red and blue fruit; red floral notes, warm baking spice, cassis, leather-bound cedar-lined cigar box; smooth, integrated, structured

2017 Pippin Hill Farm and Vineyards Petit Verdot $40: layers of blue and red fruit, warm baking spice, black tea, crushed violets, dusty cocoa, and trailing vanilla; mineral-driven palate with a crushed velvet mouth-feel, bold yet elegant, full-bodied, long finish

2017 Pollak Vineyards Smuggler $75: 56% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; balance of red and blue fruit, black tea, crushed roses, warm spice, kirsch, black pepper, fresh tobacco; smooth with balance and structure, minerality foundation, long finish

2017 Pollak Vineyards Cabernet Franc $50: dark chocolate covered cherry, black plum, baking spice, black pepper, crushed roses, worn leather; modernly rustic, well-structured, smooth with long finish

2017 Rockbridge Vineyard Vd’Or $25: 39.1%Vidal Blanc, 31.7 %Vignoles, 29.2% Traminette; decadent notes of dried apricot, quince paste, orange blossom, honey; sweet yet well-structured with bright acidity and a long clean finish

2017 Shenandoah Vineyards Reserve Red $38: 40% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot 5% Cabernet Sauvignon; bold notes of black fruit, baking spice, black pepper, dried roses and herbs, worn leather, dusty cocoa; boldness follows onto palate, firm structure, grippy tannins, balanced with a long finish

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