New Brand To Know: Ply-Knits

Ply-Knits designer Carolyn Yim created her line in 2016 with sustainability in mind. Born and raised in Hong Kong, the Columbia University alum comes from a family of knitwear designers. Working at Team Lee Knitters, her family’s business allowed Yim to come across brands that go to the factory for inspiration and technical advice. The brand is currently sold on Browns Fashion and on ply-knits.com.

What inspired you to launch your label?

I was inspired by the Slow Food movement. Carlos Petrini started Slow Food in Cuneo, Italy in 1986 against McDonald’s and fast-food. Food should be local, clean, fair — terms we now take for granted in a Whole Foods, but was uncommon at the time. He also believed if diners could see who grew their vegetables, milked their cows, and raised their chickens, diners would respect their food more. Farmers would also put more care into their farming and grow better crops.

I believe the same should exist in clothing. The fashion supply chain is very long and opaque. I stand in a unique position as my family has made many of the world’s clothing for generations. We have a very sustainable and high-quality operation in place. But we would just be hidden behind an anonymous “Made In China” label. There continues to be many misconceptions about manufacturing in China, even though it is very advanced and best in class. I want to narrow the gap between producer and consumer to increase understanding. So I started Ply-Knits, where you are literally buying directly from me, the maker of your sweater. You can ask me any niche questions about how your sweater is made and I can answer it! How many brands can claim that?

Why fashion?

The supply chain behind clothing fascinates me, as it touches so many hands. If you do things right, you can really impart a lot of long-term positive changes from the ground up. I also love the sociology and psychology in fashion, how people react to each other via these symbols and codes we choose to put on every morning on our body. Even the seeming lack of choice (going out in sweatpants and hotel slippers a la Justin Bieber) is a type of signaling.

What is your brand ethos?

The Ply-Knits ethos is comfort. Not just physical comfort — because that would mean wearing a snuggie out in public — but also, psychological comfort. You must be comfortable in your own skin. I am not keen on designing ‘full looks’ because that means you are wearing someone else’s look, someone else’s skin, not your own. So the Ply-Knits sweater is always quiet enough that it can fit into your existing closet easily, but also slightly differentiated with subtle details so that you stand out, and don’t look like everyone else.

How would you describe your signature aesthetic?

The Ply-Knits aesthetic is quite boyish but feminine. I also play with the tension between old and new. I contrast vintage knitwear from my grandmother’s knit archives with super hi-tech methods. For instance, I made 1960’s style 12-button cashmere cardigans cropped high at the waist, but then digitally printed scenes of techno club crowds on them. I love playing with juxtapositions like this. The whole thing is finished using superfine cashmere-silk.

Using the best materials is our other signature. That doesn’t mean the most expensive, but the most comfortable, long-lasting, nicest looking, and lowest impact. Superfine merino and cashmere-silk blend fulfills all of these qualities. So I use these materials a lot. In knitwear, synthetic materials such as acrylic and polyester look noticeably cheap when worn. Unfortunately, they are still quite commonly used in women’s fashion, even in high-end brands.

What was your inspiration this season?

I had a collaboration with legendary tastemaking boutique Browns London this season. The brief was to make oversized, cozy, but essential cashmere sweaters. After some time thinking about how to make this unique, I came up with the idea of knitting in a very subtle row of zigzag ZZZ’s at the cuffs. It is subtle but catchy. Together with the oversized, comfy aesthetic, the capsule is appropriately called “Catch Your ZZZ’s”.

For our campaign (attached), I was inspired by Austrian contemporary artist Erwin Wurm. He made a series of very flippant, humorous sculptural objects using knitwear in bright colors in anthropomorphic shapes. They are very empathetic and joyful. In these anxious, uncanny times, I wanted to create humor and spread joy through my work.

Who is your customer?

My customer is a savvy older woman. She is sophisticated and understands top quality materials, and is not obliged towards showing off conspicuous brand names or the latest trends. She also doesn’t like to overpay for high-quality clothing. We do a lot of private sales in Hong Kong for my mother’s and grandmother’s friends — most of them are politicians, businesswomen, women with high expectations but shrewd at shopping.

What are your plans for the label?

I have a secret collaboration coming up later this year that I am particularly excited about, involving a really high-level quality of beadwork. This is especially meaningful to me because that goes back to the origins of my family’s business. My grandmother started her business making and selling beaded knitwear in Hong Kong. We have worked on it for almost a year and it will be amazing.