On World Ocean’s Day 2020, How Is The Fashion Industry Taking Action?

While sustainability may not be a top-of-mind issue for consumers at the present moment, some fashion and apparel brands are continuing to lean into their efforts aimed at reducing ocean waste despite that fact—which is relevant today on World Oceans Day.

The reality is: more than 8 million metric tons of plastics enter the oceans each year—on top of the 150 million metric tons that are currently circulating marine environments. 

This is a pressing issue when you consider scientists have found that the plastic waste we can see and measure only accounts for a small percentage of the total amount of plastics that enter the ocean.

Consumer demand is also causing apparel brands to shift their focus to more responsibly-made products. The US market for sustainably-made products is projected to reach $150 billion in sales by 2021, according to Nielsen. 

Traackr data shows that discussions around sustainable fashion are on the rise as well: mentions of sustainable fashion among influencers have increased 55% in recent years, bringing audience engagement along with it. 

As such, several fashion brands are taking steps to incorporate recycled materials pulled from the ocean into their production models in various ways. 

Brands taking action to reduce ocean pollution

In the swimwear vertical, this year L*Space introduced a new eco-friendly line of swimwear leveraging materials like Econyl and Repreve that are made from non-virgin materials like fishnets and recycled ocean waste, which they plan to expand further.

Founder Monica Wise said that while she knows the brand still has a long way to go to become truly sustainable, it all starts somewhere—and producing less waste is a good starting point.

As such, they’re also introducing new packaging made from recycled materials.

Activewear brand Wolven manufactures the majority of its apparel with OEKO-TEX certified recycled fabric (made from recycled plastic bottles) and touts that each pair of leggings sold helps remove one pound of plastic from the ocean—which is part of the brand’s transparency around its sustainability efforts.

Recently named Climate Neutral Certified, they also promote that they have a smaller carbon footprint because their garments are ethically produced in Asia (where the fabrics are made.)

In May of 2020, clothing company Desert Dreamer rolled out a new line called ‘Revive’ with items made with yarn made from recycled plastics.

In their case, they plan to use their influence as one of the leading brands sold in PacSun to encourage more sustainable practices with other retail partners.

And in the footwear vertical, Adidas has its Parley line with shoes made from recycled ocean plastics.

In 2020, they project that they’ll manufacture between 15-20 million pairs of shoes made with ocean plastics, up from just 11 million in 2019.

Insights from sustainability experts

So what do experts within the sustainability space have to say about brands taking action to reduce ocean waste on World Ocean’s Day (and year-round)?

Andrea Kennedy, assistant professor at LIM College, says that first, it’s important to understand a distinction: The plastic used in textiles is actually often beach plastic (rather than ocean plastic.)

Plastic that has been in salt water for extended periods becomes very brittle, and thus is harder to break down and re-spin. 

“The goal, then, should be to keep more plastic from entering our oceans and thus further degrading them—but combing beaches and getting plastics that have washed up is a first step,” she said. 

“In general, it’s far better to use ocean plastic to create new synthetic fibers for apparel rather than creating new synthetic fibers, as these are derivatives of oil and petroleum.”

If you ask journalist Jasmin Chua, who focuses on the fashion industry’s environmental impacts, she says that using recycled ocean plastics is a good idea—but that we also need to ask critical questions of brands using ocean plastic in their marketing, as recycled plastic still sheds microfibers that enter oceans.

“Ocean plastic isn’t a perfect solution—consuming less overall is still our best way forward,” she said.

“Nothing purchased new is completely guilt-free.”