When Will Fashion Retailers Reorganize For Real Change?

George Floyd’s death was a real wakeup call for corporate America. More TV stations suddenly had Black announcers, newspaper managements (such as Conde Nast) had a change of managers, radio stations finally made an effort to elevate the voices of Black artists. The sudden awakening of corporate conscience was startling and uplifting. The axing of Aunt Jemima and Uncle Ben was long overdue since it is a throwback of behavior that should have gone out when Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. Images have shifted dramatically in the last few days.

Let’s look at retail and how it could act.

CVS, Walgreen and Walmart
WMT
are now keeping multicultural beauty products out of locked cabinets. The action was taken after a Walmart customer complained that locking up items that cater to people of color was discriminatory. Of course, all companies pleaded that they had a non-discriminatory policy that applied to all aspects of their business. The action is good, since it acknowledges a concern that reflected a racist attitude.

Glossy reports that black founders of beauty brands catering to black consumers have experienced unique challenges in their fundraising process, largely since the investor pool is dominated by white males with a lack of knowledge on the consumer and the market. Glossy sees some changes with several beauty brands marking Juneteenth, the end of slavery in the United States. While the Emancipation Proclamation was issued two-and-a-half-years earlier, slavery ended on June 19, 1865 when the last slaves were freed in Galveston, Texas.

Last Friday was Juneteenth, a day that gives an opportunity for all of us to fight racism in our country. Atria, Nike
NKE
, JCPenney
JCP
and Oreo are among the companies who are offering their employees a paid, companywide holiday. That’s great. But Walmart, Comcast
CMCSA
and others did not give their company’s associates a paid holiday, but pledged funds to fight racism. Currently 47 states and the District of Columbia recognize Juneteenth as a state holiday, including New York and Virginia this year. It should really be a National holiday.

In addition to supporting Juneteenth as a Holiday, the retail industry must also ensure that everyone can shop and enjoy the freedom of choosing their proper wear.

What is proper wear? This is the key question. Much of the merchandise is bought by white merchants – male and female – who have not had intimate relations with black customers. Do they really understand their needs, their feelings, their taste? There has been a relatively strong glass ceiling – despite the few black executives that are working in department stores who fought their way up the ladder like everyone else had to. I think there should be more effort by the leaders of the retail industry.  Macy’s
M
just advanced Felicia Williams, a Black woman who has 16 years of executive experience with the company to Interim Chief Financial officer.  It would be to their credit if the advancement were to become permanent.  Williams joined Macy’s in 2004 and earned promotion to Controller and Enterprise Risk Officer in 2016.

The emporium of the past – with its appeal to a white audience is no longer what chain stores reflect. They were run as fiefdoms of the CEO’s who reflected the culture of yesterday. Even I was often impressed by the luxurious trappings of bygone days. Today there is transparency in the head office which is good and it leads to a hopeful future.

I have an intuitive sensitivity against prejudice. In my case, I felt the horror of German antisemitism, which was demeaning and debilitating. I stand with anyone fighting prejudice. One just asks why it has taken so long for us to recognize that there are no Confederate heroes and that living in the past is wrong and counterproductive. We have the strength to develop equality for everyone.