The fashion edit: 5 style staples born in times of crisis

But where does silk come into the story? Did Kublai conquer China only to profit from the country’s silk trade? No.

The Mongols were warriors, and as profitable as the silk trade was, the silk itself was useful to Mongol soldiers and horsemen in a very particular manner. It helped stop arrows. Worn under layers of leather armour that could still be pierced by sharp projectiles, Chinese-woven silk acted as a dampener that stopped enemy arrows from penetrating too deep into the skin or reaching the vital organs. Over time, Kublai’s control over Chinese silk production paid off not just in terms of trade revenues, but also by saving many Mongol lives on various battlefields.

Chinese-woven silk acted as a dampener that stopped enemy arrows from penetrating too deep into the skin or reaching the vital organs of the Mongol soldiers

The act of making clothes and items of apparel is tied very closely to politics, economics and culture. For example, while leatherworking is considered close to an art in Europe, in India it is considered the work of so-called ‘outcastes’ because of rigid notions of purity as well as the caste system. This is why, historically, we never excelled in leatherworking at a global level, whereas numerous Indians (who can afford to) aspire to own at least one ‘designer’ handbag or pair of shoes from the likes of LV, Gucci, Fendi, and Prada.

Everything we wear tells a story. And it is important for us to listen to those stories. Knowing them gives us the power to make better choices. And as we go into the future, our choices will become all the more important to the survival of the planet as a whole.

The Chinese-woven silk was worn as armour by Mongol soldiers and horsemen

Varun Rana is a fashion commentator and Communications Director at the House of Angadi, a Bengaluru-based textile label. He pretends to learn the sitar at Sadhana School in Alaknanda, New Delhi.

The views expressed in this story are that of the writer.