Pangaia Launches New Collection With Colorifix Using Biology-Based Dyes

That trendy hot pink color, or that bright vibrant green is great to look at — but synthetic dyes can be problematic for the environment, damaging water systems with their run off. Even natural dyes need fixing agents that can harm their surroundings, if used in excess quantities.

It’s estimated that 20 percent of pollution to waterways is caused by the textile industry, says Orr Yarkoni, CEO and founder of Colorifix, a startup looking at how to make dyes less toxic. 

In 2013, Orr was doing research in Nepal to better understand how far-reaching pollution to rivers and bodies of water actually is. “We were looking at chemicals such as arsenic and heavy metals but when we asked locals what else was problematic, we learned that it was chemicals coming from textile manufacturing.” 

That led him to start a company which creates biology-based dyes. Unlike other innovations in this space, Orr has been able to create a product that works in tandem with the existing supply chains in fashion. So that means dye houses and manufacturers don’t have to drastically change their ways, and they’re also going to save water (almost as much as 50%) and energy (up to 30%) in the process, Yarkoni says.

“When I first showed it, people were nervous. But when they see the color charging overnight, thanks to the bacteria, and then they transfer the liquid from the dye machine and see the whole process, they start to understand it,” he explains. “In fact, in one facility, one gentleman stood in front of the machine for two hours, with his hands crossed, to see the transformation in color. He couldn’t believe it, and called his boss over to see it.”

While some may have been skeptical or amazed by Colorifix’s technology, Pangaia, a brand known for marrying tech, innovation, and fashion, has been keeping an eye on biology-based dyes for some time, says Amanda Parkes, Chief Innovation Officer at Pangaia.

This winter, the brand is launching their first-ever clothing capsule using Colorifix’s tech. “Rather than taking from nature, together, we’re learning from it. We replicated the DNA codes of pigments found in nature and with the help of amazing microbes, created unique shades with zero harmful chemicals, no bulk supply chain, and less water and energy used,” she explains.

While Colorifix’s approach is a bit more expensive, Yarkoni admits, it’s cheaper than some of the eco-friendly dyes on the market, and as the cost of manufacturing increases due to inflation, “we’ll be on par with the rest of the industry,” he says.

Are there any drawbacks? Yarkoni and his team have not figured out how to apply the dye to all materials: they’ve focused mostly on natural fibers, and are yet to do denims. Plus, they’re developing colors weekly, adding to their collection; black is a color they’re still developing.

“Harnessing the power of microorganisms to create natural dye is only the beginning of how bio-fabrication can fundamentally transform manufacturing,” says Parkes. 

Colorifix, which has worked with brands such as H&M and Stella McCartney, is excited about finding partners in the fashion industry who want to experiment. This particular collection with Pangaia features two naturally occurring pigments — blue and pink — and includes a hoodie and trackpant, available on Pangaia’s site starting November 30th.

“Our goal was really to create something that could benefit everyone — people in the industry, people wearing the clothing, and people who live in these communities were clothes are dyed,” says Yarkoni.